Day 100 - Reminders of summer

Even in what feels like the depths of winter, New Zealand can throw up a surprise of an evening like this, when a bright blue sky turns dark with a sunset like the best of summer.

Day 99 - Wetas

I'd been in New Zealand only a few hours when I encountered my first weta - the terrifying-looking insect made famous by Hobbit director Peter Jackson, who named his Weta Workshop visual effects house after them. Apparently they're an endangered species so I have to be nice about them, but for someone with bordering on clinical arachnophobia, the sight of a two inch, armour plated, spike legged, air-bourne beast like this one nearly had me running straight back to the aeroplane that brought me here...

Day 98 - The White Lady

Every town needs a food van to satisfy those late night cravings for chips or to soak up some of the alcohol after an evening of excess. Auckland's is more iconic than most, the White Lady having served up midnight burgers and hotdogs since just after the War, and even in daylight it stands as one of the city's most historic sights.

Day 97 - The Viaduct's Te Wero Bridge

I've always found something hypnotic about those bridges that slowly open, lift and drop to let through passing vessels and this one in the Auckland Viaduct's Wynyard precinct is no exception.

Day 96 - Gibbs Farm

The very definition of a 'hidden gem', Gibbs Farm in the Kaipara Harbour to the north west of Auckland is almost totally unknown to the average Kiwi on the street and is criminally overlooked by the guidebooks. And yet I've just spent one of my most inspiring days out ever at this giant sculpture park, where world-class works of supersized art, stunning views of the surrounding natural landscape and free-roaming imported animals (emus, buffalo, zebra) combine to provide a mesmeric experience for kids and adults alike.

Day 95 - Auckland's Asian Food Courts

Asian food is never in a short supply in Auckland and you don't need to pay through the nose to get the good stuff. The food courts off Ponsonby Road and Queen Street are favourite spots for a quick, cheap and always tasty feed, and the portions are almost embarrassingly generous.

Day 94 - Kumeu country walks

I had the good fortune to be able to live in the countryside when I first moved to New Zealand and long walks through the rolling fields and gentle hills of Kumeu to the west of Auckland were a real highlight of my time there. So when a free weekend presents the opportunity to revisit the area and get back to nature, I don't need much convincing.

Day 93 - Random old stuff on Trade Me

Trade Me - the online market where 'Kiwis by and sell' - has become a favourite online destination while I've been living here. Whether you're looking for a rare book or a second-hand piece of furniture, Trade Me usually delivers, but browsing its many thousands of items is at its most entertaining when it throws up random antiques like this mounted wall clock and barometer.

Day 92 - Stormy skies

We get some wild weather events in Auckland from time to time, which can be as exciting as they are unnerving. Yesterday's incredible split sky over the CBD was a case in point.

Day 91 - The Cav

There aren't many truly great pubs in New Zealand but I'd argue that College Hill's Cavalier Tavern - affectionately known as 'The Cav' - is definitely in with a shout. A great selection of tap beers, an outdoor deck with stunning views out across the city, sport of the TV, hearty burgers and fruit machines - it has all the trappings of a first class watering hole. The only thing missing is crisps behind the bar, but I guess you can't have everything...

Day 90 - Albert Park

Albert Park has a claim to be Auckland's most urban green space. Bordered by the University on one side, and the Art Gallery and CBD on the other, it lacks the escapism of the city's finest parks, but as a destination for live music (the annual BFM student radio concert series) and spectacular installations (the Chinese New Year lantern festival), it has a cultural significance the other struggle to match. 

Day 89 - The Auckland Art Gallery

A fine art gallery both for the quality of its works and the architecture behind its recent renovation, Auckland's cultural centrepiece is a destination to be returned to throughout the year. Recent exhibitions of rock 'n' roll photography and the European masters have shown the breadth of its offering, with modern and classical art sitting side by side in a way that never feels unnatural.

Day 88 - Al Brown's new bagel joint

Celebrity (and actually very good) chef Al Brown has recently opened a specialist bagel outlet in the formal industrial site of Rhubarb Lane in Auckland. While hardly the most inspiring development on paper, the proof is very much in the pudding and his simple but flavour-packed bagels are some of the best I've ever tasted.

Day 87 - School

Today I had the fortune of visiting an Auckland primary school on Dominion Road - in all likelihood the first time I have set foot inside a primary school since I last walked out of the gates of my own some 19 years ago. And what a great school it was too, with friendly staff, polite children, art-filled classrooms and acres of green playing space. If this one is in any way representative of New Zealand schools in general then Kiwi parents are very lucky indeed.

Day 86 - Hilltop picnics

Auckland's abundance of green spaces means it's never hard to find a suitable spot for a picnic on a sunny afternoon. And for those willing, a trudge uphill on one of its many volcanic mounds means you can eat your ham and cheese sandwiches against the backdrop of a stunning cityscape.

Day 85 - No more church weddings

If, like me, you've always baulked at the thought of a stuffy church wedding, you could do worse than get yourself on the invite list of a New Zealand one, which will almost certainly take place outdoors against some spectacular backdrop or other under blue and sunny skies. Ahhh.

Day 84 - The Domain's Wintergarden

Somewhere most native Aucklanders would probably never think to venture, the Wintergarden - a Classical statue filled courtyard book-ended by two vast greenhouses brimming with exotic flowers and plant life - is a serene escape from the city hubbub in the heart of the Domain parkland.

Day 82 - The turning of leaves in autumn

The NZ autumn isn't quite as spectacular as the North American fall, but it's still capable of producing some pretty special sights, not least when the clouds give away to a clear blue sky and red and brown leaves come alive in the sunlight.

Day 82 - Easy recycling

Recycling was not always that easy in London, not least because the recycling 'basket' that the council provided you with was barely large enough for the weekend's newspapers. Thankfully New Zealand, while still not doing as much as it should for the environment, does at least have an efficient domestic recycling system with Auckland's huge dedicated wheelie bins meaning there's no excuse not to sort your cardboard and plastic from your common household muck.

Day 81 - Inside on a rainy day

Kiwi culture is fundamentally an outdoorsy one and not really made for cold rainy days. As winter draws closer, the tendency is a kind of hibernation, as people retreat into the relative warmth of their homes (I say 'relative' because the lack of central heating in most houses means it can get extremely cold indoors.) Personally, I find something comforting in this, especially when looking down on a wet and windy garden from the cosy haven of an upstairs bedroom.

Day 80 - Car parking

Actually, street car parking in Auckland can be a pain in the ass but there are lots of car parks with lots of spaces if you're prepared to pay for the privilege - which is a minor upgrade on London at least.

Day 79 - Football fields with great views

If you could play football on a pitch with views like this, why wouldn't you?

Day 79 - Rialto cinemas

The best art cinema chain in New Zealand and a haven for pretentious film snobs like me who'd rather see something in Croatian than a Hollywood action movie...

Day 78 - Street art

No one likes criminally motivated graffiti, but there are a significant number of seemingly authorised works of street art in Auckland that demand recognition.

Day 76 - Oranges and lemons

Citrus fruits grow well in New Zealand and we're lucky enough to have some blooming orange and lemon trees in garden. Handy if you have a craving for a fresh juice or lemon tea.

Day 75 - Lots and lots of rainbows

The locals look at me and my fellow ex-pats a bit strangely when we exclaim joyfully at the sight of a rainbow. That's because, further to my last post, the highly changeable weather means rainbows are extremely common in New Zealand, whereas back home you might only see one a handful of times a year. Suffice to say, they make me fondly recall the Wizard of Oz.

Day 74 - Sunlight after a rainstorm

Auckland is known for its 'four seasons in a day' schizophrenic weather, and while it can play havoc with your weekend plans, those moments when the sun suddenly bursts through after a heavy deluge are always magical.

Day 73 - Wood for winter fires

It's the time of year when everyone starts stocking up on their firewood supplies to feed their Rayman's and pot-bellied stoves ahead of the winter chill. While I'm still struggling to adapt to the lack of domestic central heating over here, I do think there's something magical about this more old-fashioned method of keeping warm.

Day 72 - Allpress coffee

We're pretty spoilt for choice when it comes to coffee in Auckland, but if you had to select the finest purveyor of roasted beans it would hard to look much further than Allpress, who are deservedly renowned not only for the quality of their coffee product but also the expertise of the baristas. Though their beans are significantly more expensive than the ones you can buy in the supermarket, I try to make the effort to visit Allpress's Ponsonby outlet as often as I can for the best coffee in town.

Day 71 - The Auckland Museum

By some distance Auckland's grandest building, the Auckland War Memorial Museum, which stands proud on top of the Domain, recalls the US White House or, further back in time, an Ancient Roman pantheon. It's at its most impressive at night though, when its columns are illuminated spectacularly.

Day 70 - Feijoas

I'd never heard of this strange green fruit in the UK, but over here it's hard to escape their distinct aroma. While I'm yet to adapt fully to their unique flavour in raw form, I have been known to enjoy the odd feijoa cake or cider from time to time...

Day 69 - The drawing in of autumn

After what feels like the longest summer in history, autumn has finally arrived with two days of non-stop rain, wind and falling leaves. It's not such a distinctive season over here - you almost don't notice it creeping up on you - when when such a verdant green landscape does start to turn crisper and yellower it can be a sight to behold.

Day 68 - Tree roots

 

I've always been struck by the way the roots of certain types of New Zealand tree seem to stretch out wildly like the squirming tentacles of a squid or jellyfish. And there's something almost volcanic about this one in Cornwall Park, its roots spilling outwards like a lava flow down the side of a mountain.

Day 67 - Garden centre cafes

I can't claim to be an avid gardener or be any sort of expert of horticulture, but I do enjoy the odd trip to a garden centre over here, not least because most of them have bloody good cafes with cabinets stacked full of cake-y delights. Which are only acceptable if I burn off the calories afterwards with a spot of weeding...

Day 66 - Views across city rooftops

There are some great views across the rooftops of Auckland's CBD, many of them restricted to private apartments and offices. This one from a flat in St Mary's Bay particularly struck me as it suggested a city much more built up and industrial than it often feels on the ground.

Day 65 - The map of New Zealand

I love maps. Maps are great. Particularly those of foreign countries you're exploring for the first time. The New Zealand map is especially fascinating, with so many odd bumps and nooks and peninsulars up and down its spindly length. Looking at this map pinned up on our lounge wall, it reminds me how much of the country I'm still to explore.

Day 64 - Only occasional traffic jams

Motorway traffic jams were a way of life back home in the UK. In Auckland, though the arterial routes in and out of the city do get a big clogged up at rush hour times, it's very rare for your car to come to a complete standstill. So tonight, when it did happen, I felt grateful that that horrible sense of behind-the-wheel powerlessness is no longer a daily occurrence.

Day 63 - Daylight saving

Daylight saving goes on for a little longer over here, with dark evenings only needing to be endured for a five month period between early April and late September. The rest of the year, sights like this one at 7pm or later are commonplace, and as you'll have seen from many of the snaps on this blog, NZ does love a good sunset.

Day 62 - Suburban market days

Every so often in Auckland, suburban high streets like those of Remuera and Mount Eden are transformed into markets where shopkeepers and budding entrepreneurs can come and set up roadside stalls and take advantage of the guaranteed crowds. It's a great idea and brings energy and excitement to parts of the city that can often be fairly sedate.

Day 61 - The Birdcage

Despite being located right underneath a motorway bridge, the recently re-opened and refurbished Birdcage pub opposite Victoria Park is already proving a favourite spot for an after-work or lunchtime brew.

Day 60 - Twin Oak Drive

One of Cornwall Park's most striking features, Twin Oak Drive is a romanticised version of an English country boulevard that's a favourite with walkers and joggers. As a long and hot summer starts to turn cooler, and the leaves begin to brown and fall, Twin Oak Drive is a vivid reminder of how autumn can be nature's most striking season.

Day 59 - Mount Eden from Mount Hobson

... and here's Mount Eden from another angle, as viewed from the top of one of its neighbouring volcanic bumps, Mount Hobson, at dusk. Magical.

Day 58 - Mount Eden Village

Another of Auckland's urban 'villages', Mount Eden is another favourite for its great cafes (Olafs with its supreme baked goods and Frasers, which stays open till 11pm), dining scene (Michael Van De Elzen's excellent Molten), pubs (Monteith's bar The Cloakroom and the Belgium beer cafe De Poste) and shops (which include the pictured bookshop Time Out, one of the finest in Auckland). All this overlooked by the towering volcanic bump Mount Eden itself, which provides incredible 360 views over the city. What's not to like?

Day 57 - Walks along the beach

Much as I love Britain's rugged unkempt coastline, walks on white sand beaches under brilliant sunshine are not what it's about. They are what New Zealand's about though, and the two islands' seemingly infinite range of seaside beauty spots makes me feel like I'm on a permanent holiday.

Day 56 - Fishing

I can't claim to be any kind of fishing expert (my handling of a fishing rod was once described politely as 'unorthodox'), but the few occasions I have been out on the water in New Zealand have been some of the most enjoyable and relaxing of my time here. I even caught an actual fish once, which should buy me at least a degree of credibility from my Kiwi colleagues.

Day 55 - L&P

I've never been the biggest fan of soft drinks, but the light and refreshing Lemon & Paeroa, whose bottles and cans proudly - and quite accurately - proclaim it to be 'world famous... in New Zealand', is perfect as a summer's day thirst-quencher.

Day 54 - Bees

Like sheep, bees are a more common sight in New Zealand than they are back home, but still bee populations here are declining at an alarming rate. Beekeeping as well seems to be something of a dying art, so it's heartening when you come across a buzzing hive like this in someone's back garden.

Day 53 - Sheep

There's an old joke about there being more sheep than people in New Zealand. Now while I've no idea if there is any truth in this, it's undeniable that there are a bloody large number of the woolly creatures residing here. They tend to be a bit more refined than the scraggy British versions I'm used to and are surprisingly tame, even in the wild. I can also confirm they LOVE apples.

Day 52 - Lunchtime escapes to Victoria Park

It's a park in the middle of the city with a motorway running right through the middle of it. And yet, Victoria Park is a blissful lunchtime haven for office workers wanting to escape their stressful desk-bound lives. (Yep, that includes me.)

Day 51 - My brass bed

In the absence of Ikea, vintage and second hand retailers become a necessity if you want affordable furniture - and as this brass bed shows, the end results are often a lot more interesting than your average flat pack.